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Sorry also just wondering what the seat height is off the ground?, I’m wanting to get my screen fitted to the wall before my rig arrives, many thanks and love videos mate 👍

Awesome stuff, glad it was useful!

It sounds like it's an obvious statement but it's honestly so true 😅 you can get the same visibility with a good set of triples though, but you don't get the same 'feeling' of being in the car and being able to judge the space around you properly. It definitely feels a lot more natural. Also, thanks for remind me about this video! It's a few years old now and I'd kind of forgotten about it. Might have to revisit the topic now I've got even more experience.

Not quite sure where you're coming from with this take, being as I didn't mention that brand once in the entire video 😅 but hey, you do you.

@@DDFRacer ik it’s not against you I’m just saying I’m lazy and this is way too much work for me. Ain’t no way I’m gonna set this up with hours of tweaking when I could easily just buy the simagic haptics. It’s a joke ma dude

@@sumtingcool1235 Ah that makes more sense! Sorry mate, I didn't get the context of your original comment at all 🧡

All good mate 😎 there'll be plenty more no doubt!

Yes...but not really. Trueforce uses some physics data to generate additional FFB through the steering wheel, whereas these bass shakers can be mounted _anywhere_ (in my example, pedals, but plenty of people mount them under their seat also) and also can be completely configured through SimHub to your own personal preference, not what Logitech decide. Also these are useful for anyone that doesn't have a Logitech wheel 😉

If it wasn't for Rangey, I _still_ probably wouldn't be using them 😅 so cheers to him, not me! Thoroughly enjoying them though, now that I've been able to dial them in properly, makes a big difference.

I've had some other people mention in the comments that with enough insulating material under the rig (gym mats, car mats, HVAC material etc) then you can almost entirely eliminate the vibrations from transferring through the rig into the floor. That still doesn't eliminate the actual 'noise' that these shakers generate though so it's always going to be tricky in situations like yours unfortunately 😢 (also, I didn't know that Germany had a reputation for solid buildings 👍 thanks for teaching me something new today!)

Thanks for the kind words 😎 glad you enjoyed the video! I did actually make a follow up video to this one a few months later where I gave rF2 a little more time and love. It was the sim that I started the channel with many years ago and I do have some very fond memories of it, but also some rather negative ones spending many hours solving issues which shouldn't really be issues.

@@DDFRacer That is the tragedy of rF2, it has the potential, nay it should, by now be blowing every other SIM out of the water! But year after year its potential is wasted: it now resembles an almost famous, ageing has-been. Sad really. On a more positive note; loving your content :)

Ha yeah 😆 I sure did! Feels like a lot longer than 3 years ago now though, it's amazing how quickly things can escalate once you start upgrading...

Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it! To answer your questions: 1 - The shakers came pre-attached to the brackets when Rangey sent them over so I don't personally have the experience of how they were mounted, but from what he's told me, the disc underneath the shaker unscrews and can be detatched. You can then use a replacement bolt (M5 or M6, he can't remember) with a couple of washers to attach it to the bracket. 2 - The brackets had to be drilled from what I gather, so no issue ensuring they would fit as the measurements were taken directly from the pedals themselves when drilling. 3 - Ah yes, good point! I completely overlooked this in the video. The replacement bolts for the pedals do need to be longer, although the lower bolt can't be too long as it'll interfere with the spring when the pedal is depressed. In this case they're countersunk stainless M5 x 50mm and 35-40mm (not sure on the exact measurement of the shorter bolt as Rangey cut this down to size manually). Hope this helps 👍

Ah bugger, that's a shame! I just had a quick look and this seems like the same thing so _should_ do the trick hopefully: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003181384420.html

The default Fanatec motors are essentially the same as the vibration motor in your phone. It's either on/off and only at one particular speed, it also takes a little time to gather speed due to the intertia involved in getting the shaft with the offset weight rotating. These shakers aren't a rotating motor though, they're effectively a little speaker and generate vibrations by playing back sound frequencies, specifically bass frequencies. They have a much quicker response time (important when things happen in milliseconds whilst driving) and can also be tuned to play back different frequencies and volumes. For example, the more grip loss I have, the more I've tuned SimHub to lower the frequency and increase the volume which makes for a very nice progressive feeling instead of just on/off. Can't speak for the Simagic ones though as I've never used them, sorry about that!

Thank you 😎 much appreciated

Good question, and not one I can answer unfortunately as I don't know the specific wires that Rangey included when he sent me all of this gear. I'll find out and let you know though 👍

@@DDFRacer Generic speaker wire from Jaycar. These aren't high power devices.

Had to go back and watch this again as I couldn't remember, but from what I can see it's easy to miss an upshift if you don't get the revs exactly right when you engage the gear with the H pattern. Using the clutch was a fail safe way to (mostly) avoid not having rev matching issues, whereas when I'm downshifting I'm also blipping the throttle at the same time which eliminates that issue 👍hope that helps explain it.

Also interested in the answer to this

These shakers I'm using are 4 Ohm 👍 and the cables are not included with the shakers or the amp so you'll have to get hold of those separately. Rangey sent them to me pre-assembled so I'm not sure if he needed to expose the copper on one end or add connectors on the other unfortunately. Same deal with the brackets too, these were pre-assembled, but from what he's told me the disc on the underside of the shaker unscrews and you can use a bolt with a few washers to attach it instead of the disc. Hope this helps!

I used JST-PH 2.0 connectors from amazon to join the cables, but it really isn't needed, solder or crimp them together would also be fine. there isn't a lot of cable from the factory

@@rangeyrover thanks for the answers. You are gentlemen and scholars.

Oh you 🤦‍♂️

The biggest thing they were telling me was when I was sliding around too much. It's so easy to over drive the car and scrub the tyres which not only costs time going sideways instead of forwards, but burns them up much quicker too. Also helps keep the temps down and gives you more grip throughout the corner 👍 which is super noticeable with all of the elevation changes and funky cambers at Thermalito. I noticed it in other cars and tracks and also improved there too but maybe not quite to the same extent. Looking forward to doing some longer races and really testing out how much I can save on the tyres since that's always been a bit of an issue for me. A few other people here in the comments have said that with sufficient damping (rubber mounts, gym mats under the frame etc) then the noise isn't really too much of an issue but it's never going to be silent, that's for sure. Also, I wish I could say I was sorry about the Nickelback meme 😂 but I'm really not.

Ha wow, thanks Sean 🧡 I'm not sure if I can find Timbits over here in Brisbane but I'll try! Had a friend bring some over once when I was still living in the UK, even after several hours on a plane they hit the spot. Now you've just gone and made me hungry again...

I agree, that would've been useful to show in the video 😉 unfortunately though the shakers came pre-mounted to the brackets by Rangey when he sent them to me. I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍

The speakers have the little pillar on them. This has an M6 thread, I removed this and made a pillar out of washers with a small M6 set screw going through. I'll post a pic in DDF discord.

Those were already pre-assembled by Rangey when he sent them to me so I can't help much there unfortunately 😉 I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍

@@DDFRacer thanks mate, really appreciate that.

When Rangey sent me these shakers, he'd already pre-attached them to the brackets in that configuration...but for good reason 👍 according to the manufacturer it's not recommended to use them in a vertical position and they strongly suggest using them horizontally. I also noticed there's not much space around the back of my pedals to mount these shakers without interfering with the springs and hinges when the pedals are fully depressed, particularly the accelerator, and this offset gives me enough room to avoid that. I'm sure there's a more graceful and efficient mounting solution, but for a couple of dollars this isn't too bad at all 😉

@@DDFRacer hey, if you can feel the vibration individually on each pedal then it's all good. 👍